Ueli Steck (4 October 1976 – 30 April 2017)
Chamonix.net pays respect to the Swiss rock climber and professional mountaineer Ueli Steck, known as the "Swiss Machine". With 80+ Ascents of 4000m Peaks in the Alps, Ueli Steck was one of the most-renowned mountaineers of his generation, specializing in solo speed climbing, he won several awards for his mountaineering feats.
Ueli Steck was hounoured with the Piolets d'Or
Ueli Steck twice won the Piolets d'Or: in 2009 and 2014.
In 2009: Ueli was hounoured with the "Piolets d'Or" for his first ascent in the alpine style, of Tengkampoche Northface (6,500m), Nepal.
In 2014: Ueli was awarded with the Golden Ice Axe for his first solo climb of the south face of Annapurna (8,091 m), in Nepal. He climbed the route in 28 hours.
Famous for speed records on the North Face trilogy of the Eiger, the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses. In 2015, Ueli decided to climb all 82 peaks in the Alps higher than 4,000 metres, travelling between the mountains on foot or by bicycle and even by paraglider. He completed the feat in 62 days, helping cement his reputation as the "Swiss Machine".
Ueli Steck - The "Swiss Machine"
Ueli Steck has two speed records on two Mont Blanc massif:
1st Record - Les Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes
On the 28th Dec 2008, Ueli soloed the north face of Les Grandes Jorasses, on the Colton Macintyre route, setting a new record of 2 hours and 21 minutes.
The MacIntyre goulotte, is a 1100m ice route which normally takes two days to climb. Ueli picked the route because it covered with ice, which is especially good for his style of solo speed climbing.
There is a tricky section of thin ice and rock, which he had to drytool, as he could not remove his gloves, due to frigid temperatures. Despite the cold, Ueli said that the ice was in great condition and not too hard.
The Colton Macintyre goulotte is one of the most difficult routes in the Alps with some sections of 90 degrees vertical.
Ueli Steck Speed solo of the Grandes Jorasses - Colton Macintyre route
2nd Record - Les Droites in 2 hours and 8 minutes
On 19th January 2010, Ueli climbed the north face of Les Droites (4,000m) in the Mont Blanc massif, via the classic but difficult Ginat route (+85 degrees, 1000m). He sumitted in 2 hours and 8 minutes, the fastest ascent of the north face of Les Droites on record.
Ueli Steck Speed Solo of the Ginat on the Droites
Here you can watch other Ueli Steck in action on :
- Les Drus "North Couloir Direct" - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tT3hyLvYNNo,
- Aiguille du Midi - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeTDpjoZNkQ
- North Face of the Aiguille Verte - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCMhUYVHz7w
Sadly, Ueli Steck died on 30th April 2017, at the age of 41. The accident happened in the Nepalese Himalaya, on Mount Nuptse while on an acclimatisation for Everest. He fell 1,000 metres, on an ice-covered slope and his body was recovered and taken to Kathmandu.
Chamonix.net team express our most sincere condolences to Ueli Steck's friends and family.
